A Monastery in The Clouds

Deep into the grind of a one thousand foot climb, my guide Sonam paused and turned to the north, eyes widening. I lifted my head and gazed at Everest, a massive white contrast to the pearl blue sky. This climb would take us to the monastery in the clouds.

We were nearing the end of my journey in the High Himalayas when we visited Tengboche, a tiny village dominated by a beautiful Monastery. Sitting at 12,687 feet on a plateau, surrounded by snowy giants, it is a scene worth the effort. This stop along our journey also provided an unexpected window into the Buddhist religion. A belief system of peace and wisdom with a reverence toward nature. For me it is a sharp contrast to the current religious movement in my own country.

A friend from college recently visited the Himalayas. His shared experiences, timed to the backdrop of an oppressive religious movement in my country, have led me to reflect on my experience with religion in Nepal.

Does religion influence culture? Or does culture influence religion?

Trekking in the High Himalayas, confronting steep climbs at high altitudes, is a challenge to both stamina and determination. Your efforts are continually rewarded by panoramic scenes of neck-craning mountains, with large rocky landscapes, forever snow capped.

Finally cresting the plateau on this day brought us directly into the village of Tengboche. The Monastery dominates all other structures, with a large courtyard, surrounded by complex architecture adorned with red and gold. And large white monuments which are common throughout Nepal.

A beverage at a tea house on the other side of the main thoroughfare was our first priority. Warmed from the lemon tea, our legs rested, we ventured back across the dusty path. We were briefly delayed by Yaks guided by villagers carrying supplies north, the bells from their necks ringing to the cadence of their gait.

The interior of the Monastery was roomy yet simple, with a stone floor framed by dark wood. The prayer room, further in and higher up, is assessed via a steep narrow staircase. Entering brought a sense of awe. Beautiful flowing draperies of fine cloth, and columns meticulously carved and painted with vibrant color. Forty monks were aligned perfectly along benches performing their daily prayers. A deep rhythmic chant vibrated the atmosphere. Sonam found a mat to the side and we settled with legs crossed.

Sonam practices both Buddhism and Hinduism. Earlier during our journey he had shared the importance of his daily prayers. With hands connected, centered with good posture, it is a focus on mindfulness in the present. Equal time is devoted to tresspasses against others, nature, and the betterment of the self.

What I remember most from the inside is a particular young Monk, who seemed to have trouble with his robe. The room was quite warm. He also took an interest in our presence. More than once, with his robe halfway off his shoulders and his attention diverted, there was a marked increase in the volume of the elder Monk’s chant. At which point the young Monk would look away and adjust his robe.

The actions of the young Monk is a reminder of the humanity of religion. A young man, perhaps seeking his own path to inner peace and wisdom, beset by the discomfort of his setting and the distraction of unannounced visitors.

Religion is a human construct. We should not be surprised that it is often a reflection of humanity's best and worst. From authoritarian control, to a refuge for inner peace and wisdom, the religions of the world mirror a wide range of society and culture.

The villages of the High Himalayas thrive mainly as a result of cooperation with each other, and with nature. There is no vehicle access to the Khumbu region. Everything is carried, and most food is grown. A few of the villages are at altitudes where vegetation is nonexistent. They rely on those who live closer to and below 14,000 feet.

Is this ethos of cooperation from the influences of their religion, or is Buddhism and Hinduism a result of the culture inherent to that region? The Himalayas extend through India, Nepal, and Tibet, where Buddhism originated. These two religions appear to be based upon reciprocity and care. The people I met and the things I witnessed displayed these qualities.

It is difficult to succinctly describe our culture in The United States. Could our belief in a free-market economy be considered a tenet of our culture? And is our economy based more on extraction and exploitation rather than care? If so, maybe it should not be surprising that a religious movement, with those same values, would gain political power in my country. ¹

Does humanity need to move beyond our reliance on religion in order to progress to something closer to enlightenment? Perhaps the movement in my country is an extreme example of the modern age. Is there a level of control and conformity within Buddhism which I was unable to conceive of during my brief encounter?

Whether or not humanity needs to shed these constraints, I am witness to two contrasting examples of religion’s influence. In my country, religion seems to be more interested in power and control, than in aiding progress.

On the other side of the world, it would be difficult to deny religion’s utility to the people of the Khumbu region in the Himalayas. Their religion is in many ways performative. It supports and enhances their culture. A culture which is paramount to a fulfilling and happy life, in harmony with nature. It is a way of life in those villages, nestled in the highest region of the world.

1. The Christian Nationalist movement in the United States appears to be based more on extraction and control. The leaders of this movement, living in opulence, view nature as a means, rather than something to be revered.